Baby Bettas

The Siamese fighting fish, or betta fish, is one of the most popular fish available in pet stores today. They are brightly colored and graceful, yet relatively easy to care for. If you buy a male and a female betta, you can breed them and raise the betta fry, to possibly sell. Raising betta fry, however, can be much trickier than caring for an adult betta.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Things You'll Need
■ Fish tanks
■ Infusoria, brine shrimp or microworms
■ Sponge filter
■ Snails (Tank cleaner)

1. Watch the eggs. Baby bettas will hatch within 24 to 48 hours, after the eggs are laid. Once they have hatched, they will feed off of their yolk sac for another 36 hours and after that, they're free-swimming fry.

2. Remove the male from the tank within 2 days of hatching. If you don't, the male might eat the fry before you get a chance to raise them. The female betta should have been removed after spawning.

3. Feed the fry. Infusoria is a successful food source, but you'll need to start your cultures at least 2 weeks before the fish start breeding. You can also feed them newly hatched brine shrimp, which you can find at your local pet store.

4. Dump about 80 percent of your best culture of Infusoria into the tank with the fry. If you are not using Infusoria, pour in some newly hatched brine shrimp.

5. Add the sponge filter in the second week so that scum doesn't cover the water surface and drown your fry.

6. Clean the tank by adding some snails. Change the water frequently.

7. Remove the males and place them in separate containers after 2 to 4 months.

8. Change the water weekly and put the fry in larger containers. This will help them grow faster. Feed your fry frequently and in small amounts.

9. Good luck.

Betta Growth Chart

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Betta Genetics

Albino male - the rarest of all Bettas!
Wild type Bettas exhibit four color pigments; Black, Red, Yellow, and Iridescents (metallic Blues and Greens). The arrangement of these colors creates a Betta with the well known pattern that we call Multicolor. The Yellow color is so much less dense than all other colors and is, by nature, such a light color that it can be safely ignored in a discussion of Betta color genetics. But do not confuse this wild type Yellow with the Yellow that we find in our domestic "Non-red" Yellows and Bicolors. The bright Yellow color that we see on our domestic Bettas is actually Red pigment that has been altered by genetic mutation. I will write about the known genetic mutations that affect Black, Red, and Metallic pigmentation in Bettas. Each normal color can be genetically manipulated in five basic ways. It can be reduced, absent, altered, extended, or patterned.

Black (Melano) male with some Steel Blue iridescence

In wild type Bettas Black is a color that is often covered by other colors. The distribution of Black pigment is all over the fish except for most of the caudal fin and the abdominal area. This dispersion is of medium density but is not usually obvious because of other overlying colors.

BLACK BETTAS are also called Melanos. A mutant gene has caused the Black pigment to be greatly increased in density and coverage area. The overall appearance of these Bettas is quite Black. The mutated gene that causes increased Black color in Bettas is recessive to the normal Black gene. This means that if a Melano Betta were spawned to a normal Betta that does not have the mutated Black gene all the offspring would look like Multicolored Bettas. These offspring would be carrying the gene for melanism but it would not show in their coloration. These Bettas would be called Black genotypes and would be indistinguishable from normal Multicolors. Recessive characteristics only become visible if both parents pass down the mutant gene to their offspring. Some representative spawning results are presented below.

Cambodian Green male
CAMBODIAN BETTAS are Bettas with cream or white colored bodies. This mutant was first discovered in the country of Cambodia. In this case the mutation causes an absence of Black pigments on the fish. Other colors such as Red, Yellow, and Blue or Green may be present. The fins are not as affected as the body but the fin coloration is lighter than that of normal dark-bodied Bettas. Like the gene for Melano the Cambodian gene is also recessive to the normal Black gene. Some representative spawning results are presented on genetics.

BLONDE BETTAS have faded or washed out colors due to a mutant gene that has caused the Black pigment to be significantly reduced in density. The overall appearance of Blonde Bettas is pale with a lack of color contrast. A Red Betta showing the Blonde mutation exhibits a bright Red color, rather than the usual dark "Cherry" Red. The mutated gene that causes the Blonde characteristic is also recessive to the normal black gene. Betta breeders have not shown much interest in the Blonde mutation for obvious reasons.

Original Marble male
MARBLE BETTAS are Bettas with Black pigment of variable density on different parts of the body and fins, much like the coloration of a painted horse. The individual densities range from areas of no Black color all the way to very dark Black areas. When these Bettas are young the patterns of Black on white seem to shift and change from week to week. Once the fish has reached maturity the pattern is well fixed and there is usually little change from that point on. This Marble mutation appears to be a dominant gene with highly variable expression. When Marble Bettas are spawned the offspring are usually of several types including Cambodian, Blonde, Black, and Marble.

Marble Bettas were revived in America by Orville Gulley at the beginning of the 1970's. He was an inmate at a penal institution in Indiana. Walt Maurus, the number one spokesman for the Betta hobby at that time, supplied Mr. Gulley with fish and supplies through a prison rehabilitation program. When the Marbles were ready Walt distributed them to many serious breeders throughout the United States.


In wild type Bettas Red is a layer of color that is just above the Black layer. The only other colors that can cover Red are the Iridescent Blues and Greens. The distribution of Red is limited to the pelvic, anal, and caudal fins. The color density is usually heavy in those areas. The normal distribution of Red color can easily be seen on most Multicolor Bettas.

Extended Red Halfmoon male
RED BETTAS are also called extended Red because the normal Red pigment has been increased in density and extended in distribution to cover the entire body and fins of the fish. This mutant gene causes the Betta to appear to be solid Red in color. These are the brilliant Red Bettas that are so popular with fish keepers and breeders. The extended Red mutation is dominant over the gene for normal Red color. Some representative spawning results are presented below.

Yellow Plakat (short-fin) male
YELLOW BETTAS are also called Non-red Bettas. This mutated gene causes the formation of Yellow pigment instead of Red, or we can say that the Red pigment has been altered to Yellow. This mutation affects both normal Red and extended Red coloration. A Yellow (non-Red) Betta will have no Red pigment anywhere on the fish. The non-Red mutation is recessive to the gene for normal Red color. Some representative spawning results are presented below.

Example of Red-loss Betta
RED-LOSS Bettas could also be called single-colored Bettas. Aside from their beauty the Marbles brought with them another important mutated gene that has impacted nearly all other colors of Bettas. It was noted early that most Marble Bettas did not have any Red pigment, not even in the pectoral fins and gills. I believed that a separate mutant gene (other than the Marble gene that affects Black coloration) was responsible for this absence of Red. I named this gene the Red-loss gene because the Red color found on most young Marbles seemed to disintegrate and disappear as they grew. Sometimes the loss of Red pigment stopped at some point during this process, but often it continued until the Betta was completely devoid of all Red color. These Bettas that had lost all their Red pigment were the best Marbles. By crossing these fish into Cambodian Blues and Greens I was able to produce some beautiful Pastels (see photo). The next step was to produce dark-bodied Blues and Greens that showed the effects of the Red-loss gene. Black Bettas received the Red-loss mutation in their turn. All of these new Red-loss Bettas were superior show fish, since they did not have Red faults to detract from their point totals at shows. The Red-loss mutation is extremely variable in its expression and is dominant over all other Red genes, except extended Red. Some representative spawning results are presented below.

BUTTERFLY BETTAS are Bettas that have the mutant gene that causes variegated fins. The first color affected by this mutation was Red, but now Butterflies can be found in most of the other colors as well. Some Butterflies have fins that are almost totally Red except for the edges. Other Butterflies have almost completely Clear fins. There are Butterflies of all degrees in between. The ideal Butterfly pattern shows an equal division between Red and Clear on the fins. The variegated fin mutation is dominant but the effects are highly variable from fish to fish. Usually a spawning will produce a few outstanding Butterflies and many that do not have a very good pattern. To develop a Betta strain with the perfect Butterfly pattern would be a notable accomplishment for any breeder!


Blue body and Green fins
In wild type Bettas Iridescent color (Blues and Green) is the densest layer that can cover all other colors. The normal distribution of Iridescent color is limited to ray-like projections into the fins and several rows of Iridescent dots along the body of the fish. The color density is usually very heavy in those areas. The normal Iridescent color on wild Bettas is Green.

Green Female
GREEN BETTAS are also called Turquoise because the color usually has a Blue tint. The mutated gene has been named spread Iridescence because the normal Green pigment has been increased in density and extended in distribution to cover the entire body and fins of the fish. This mutant gene causes the Betta to appear solid Green in color except for the head area. The mutation for spread Iridescence is dominant to the normal Iridescent gene. Some representative spawning results are presented below.

Steel Blue Halfmoon
STEEL BLUE BETTAS are produced by a color mutation gene. The normal Green color is altered and appears as a Steel Blue color instead of Green. This color mutant affects both the normal Iridescent distribution and the spread Iridescent distribution. This means you can have solid Steel Blue Bettas if you combine this color mutation with the spread Iridescence mutation. Neither the normal Green gene nor the mutated Steel Blue gene is dominant over the other. These genes interact to produce a blending of the two colors into a new color. This prime example of intermediate dominance produces Blue (also called Royal Blue) coloration. Simply put, this means that a Green Betta possesses two normal Green genes, a Steel Blue Betta possesses two mutated Steel Blue genes, and a Blue Betta posses one normal Green gene and one mutated Steel Blue gene.

Royal Blue Female
BLUE BETTAS are also called Royal Blue Bettas. As stated above these fish have one normal Green gene and one mutated Steel Blue gene which combine to produce an intermediate Blue color. Many feel that this is the most beautiful Iridescent color. Some find it difficult to comprehend that a spawning between a Green and a Steel Blue will produce only Blue offspring, but it is true. Some representative spawning results for the three Iridescent colors are presented below.

Marble Bi-color Plakat (Short Fin) male
In wild type Bettas normal finnage is short somewhat like our domestic females, only a little more angular and pointed. All other finnage types are mutations that affect the original short fins. Some of these mutant genes are inherited as simple dominants, while others appear to be sex influenced or cumulative multiple pairs.

Dark Bi-color Betta
LONG FIN BETTAS are also called Veiltails and they are the kind you find at your local pet store. The male's tail is elongated and droops downward. This type of tail is graceful and beautiful in its own right. This mutation also causes the other fins to be elongated and larger than the normal wild type short fins. The Long Fin mutant is dominant over Short Fin.

Cellophane Blue Pastel Doubletail male
DOUBLETAIL BETTAS are produced by another mutant gene that causes the caudal (tail) fin to be divided into two lobes. A secondary characteristic produced by this mutation is a tremendously enlarged dorsal fin. The Doubletail dorsal is many times wider than the dorsal on a Singletail Betta. In fact, the dorsal and anal fins on Doubletail Bettas appear to be about the same size and width. The mutation that causes Doubletail traits in Bettas is recessive to the normal Singletail. Some representative spawning results for the Long Fin and Doubletail genes are presented below.

Cellophane Green Pastel Deltatail male
DELTATAIL BETTAS are a result of selective breeding and have roughly straight edges on each side of their tails. The degree of the tail span can be anywhere from about 120 degrees to near the Half Moon's 180 degrees. It does not appear that any single gene is responsible for this tail shape, but rather a combination of factors, both genetic and environmental. The deltatail shape is one of the most beautiful and durable in Bettas. Even in old age these fish maintain a pleasing and regal appearance.

Cambodian Turquoise Crowntail with webbing sacs
CROWNTAIL BETTAS appear to have been perfected in the East; Thailand, Singapore, and China. The rays of the fins and tail extend out past the webbing, giving some of these fish a somewhat startling appearance. (note: actually the rays appear to be of normal length and the webbing appears to be reduced) Some fish show rays that extend very far past the webbing - even 50% of the tail length. Some fish show branching that causes a single ray to have 2, 4, 8, or even 16 ray tips. There is even a variety that has crossed rays. Some people say they are outstanding while others say they look more like insects than fish.

Black Half Moon male
HALF MOON BETTAS were created during the last 10 years by European breeders. The most outstanding characteristic of Half Moons is the half circle caudal (tail). The edges are straight - one straight up and the other straight down. The rays and webbing then form a perfect 180 degree half circle around to the forward facing edges. In the ideal Half Moon Betta the dorsal and anal fins are also somewhat modified and together with the caudal all fin edges form a circular pattern approximately two thirds of the way around the body. Another key characteristic of the Half Moons is extra ray branching particularly in the caudal. In normal Bettas the caudal rays branch once, maybe twice in better fish. But in Half Moons the caudal rays branch a third time in the best fish, or even a fourth time . That means a single ray starting from the caudal peduncle can end up with 16 ray ends at the edge of the tail. An important consideration when working with Half Moons is the fact that they do not breed true. From Half Moon parents you may get no Half Moon offspring, or only one or two. Typically you will get less than 10% Half Moon offspring. With careful observation and much hard work these dedicated Betta breeders have created a magnificent new form for all of us to admire and enjoy.

My research and experience with Half Moons leads me to believe that there are at least 3 genetic factors required to produce a Half Moon Betta. First, all caudal rays must be perfectly straight with no curving or bending. Second, the straight caudal rays must branch multiple times with triple branching producing the best fish. Third, extra spread in the webbing between the rays allows the 180 degree caudal fan to form. It appears that the straight rays and the extra webbing spread are heavily impacted by environmental factors. Even if the Betta possesses these genetic traits they may not show because of generally poor water conditions or bad rearing techniques.

If all three of these genetic factors were inherited as recessives (or all three as dominants) then Half Moon Bettas would breed true and you would get 100% Half Moon offspring from a mating of Half Moons. So it seems safe to say that the three genetic factors are a mixture of dominant and recessive traits. My guess would be that the gene for multiple branching is a dominant trait, while the genes for straight rays and extra webbing spread are probably recessive traits. If this hypothesis is correct then only 3 fish out of every 64 offspring from heterogeneous parents would have the required genetic material to become Half Moons, and 2 of those 3 would be heterozygous (not pure) for multiple branching. Then there is the problem of lower quality environmental conditions inhibiting the actions of the Half Moon genes. My overall conclusion is that raising Half Moons is extremely difficult and the numbers of Half Moons produced will quite likely be very small.


Half-Giant Marble Plakat
At the Orlando IBC Convention in June, 2002 several very large Bettas were shown in class G4, Form and Finnage. There were two about 7 inches long and three or four about 3.5 inches long. Gene Lucas called the larger ones, "Two-pounders!" A couple were long-finned but most of them were short-finned Plakats. The picture above shows the 4.5 inch one I purchased at the auction after the show.

I spawned him to a regular sized Plakat female (spawn#111002) and was rewarded with about 50% Half-Giants (3.5 inch) and about 50% regular sized offspring. Some photos of the offspring can be seen here.

Green Marble
Interestingly some of the Half-Giant offspring showed early rapid growth while only a couple looked normal until about 8 months of age and then had a growth spurt to Half-Giant size. All, however, had voracious appetites and ate much more food than their regular sized siblings. Some of the fully grown Half-Giant offspring are shown below.

Based on my limited observations to date I am thinking that the Giant condition is controlled by a single pair of mutated genes. It appears that offspring receiving both Giant genes from their parents should grow to about 7 inches in length. And it follows that heterogeneous offspring receiving only one Giant gene from their parents should grow to a length of about 3.5 inches. See the table below for expected results from spawnings with Giant Bettas.

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Betta Diseases

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Posthodiplostomum sp.
COMMON NAME(S): Black spot disease
SYMPTOMS: Small black spots present on body.
ORGANISM: Digenetic fluke

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: Will usually go away on its own, as the complex life cycle of the fluke can not be completed in an aquarium. Otherwise, a five minute freshwater bath followed by formalin @ 75 ppm for one hour. Formalin is dangerous to use, so treat ONLY is a hospital tank, and wear gloves and goggles when handling.

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Chilodonella sp.
SYMPTOMS: Fish has a grey-white film of excess mucus covering its body. Gills may be swollen.
ORGANISM: Ciliated protozoan

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: Treat with .15 ppm malachite green and .50 ppm formalin. Dosage is given three times, two days apart. 2 ppm methylene blue should be added to the treatment if respiratory distress is evident. THIS IS A VERY CONTAGIOUS DISEASE, SO BE CAREFUL NOT TO SPREAD IT BY USING CONTAMINATED NETS AND HANDS IN OTHER AQUARIA. Keep temp. at 75oF.

SCIENTIFIC NAME: varies with organism
SYMPTOMS: Swollen belly, usually with scales protruding at a 90 degree angle. Redding of vent area, and long, pale feces.
ORGANISM: Bacterial, viral infections or nutritional disorder.

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: No effective treatment. Remove affected fish to quarantine tank and give the best possible food and water quality. If fish does not improve, euthanasia may be in order.

SCIENTIFIC NAME: varies according to fungal species
COMMON NAME(S): eye fungus
SYMPTOMS: Eyes may appear to have a white coating.
ORGANISM: saprophitic fungi

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: A mixture of Potassium dichromate and Silver Nitrate works the best. This is available through Aquatronics as Eye-Fungex. First, one is painted on the infected area, then the other. Follow directions on package.

COMMON NAME(S): Fish louse
SYMPTOMS: The flat, somewhat rounded parasites can be seen crawling over the skin of the infected fish.
ORGANISM: Parasitic crustacea

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: Dylox at a dose of .75 ppm. This dose is repeated three times, three days apart.

OTHER TREATMENT ALTERNATIVE: copper sulphate @ .20 ppm until parasites have gone.

ON USING COPPER: For several diseases listed , copper is mentioned as the treatment of choice (TOC) or as an alternate treatment. When speaking of copper, I am referring to citrated copper (ex: Sea Cure). At NO time should you be using heavily bonded or chelated coppers, as they are NOT as effective against the disease, and you can not measure the amount of copper in your system. Heavily bonded coppers are also much more difficult to remove from your system once the treatment is finished. In order for copper to be effective against a given disease, it must be in the ionic form, and heavily bonded coppers do not meet this parameter. The use of copper also suppresses the immune system for a time, so be aware of any bacterial infections that may set in. Feeding Tetra medicated food for bacterial problems is a good idea during copper treatment. Be careful when dosing copper in freshwater aquaria as the low pH levels usually found in freshwater aquaria make the copper extremely toxic. Once treatment is finished, remove the copper from the system by doing water changes and adding PolyFilters to the filter system. If you are treating in a hospital tank, allow the fish to recuperate from the treatment for two days before adding it to your display tank. Also remember to remove any chemical filtrants before using ANY medication. All treatments herein assume that the fishes will be treated in a hospital tank. Certain medications (antibiotics, methylene blue) will disrupt biological filtration. If you must treat in your display tank, keep a close watch out for a rise in ammonia.

ON METHYLENE BLUE: Some of the treatments require the addition of 2 ppm methylene blue. This is done in cases where gill damage may be present, as methylene blue acts as an oxygen carrier, easing the stress on the fish.

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Flexibacter spp.
COMMON NAME(S): mouth "fungus"
SYMPTOMS: Off-white marks around the mouth. As the infection spreads, white cottony tufts may appear in the mouth region, along with red ulcers on the body and frayed fins. Fish may "shimmy" and go off feed.
ORGANISM: bacterial infection, poor water quality

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: Neomycin sulphate @ 250 mg/gallon. This antibiotic is affective against a wide range of gram+ and gram - bacteria. Improve water quality.

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Ichthyophthirius multifiliis
COMMON NAME(S): ick, white spot disease
SYMPTOMS: Large white spots on the fins and body of the infected fish.
ORGANISM: Ciliated protozoan

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: .15 ppm malachite green. 3 treatments, two days apart.

COMMON NAME(S): Anchor Worm
SYMPTOMS: "Worm" is seen on the body of the fish. Usually it is a female that is seen, with her two egg sacs on the rear of the parasite.
ORGANISM: Parasitic crustacean

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: Remove parasite with tweezers, and paint the wound with tincture of iodine. In ponds, DYLOX, at a dose of .75ppm repeated every two days for three treatments, is advised.

SCIENTIFIC NAME: varies with organism
COMMON NAME(S): pop-eye
SYMPTOMS: One or both eyes may protrude from their sockets.
ORGANISM: bacterial/parasitic infection, poor water quality, gas supersaturation.

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: Neomycin sulphate @ 250 mg/gallon. This antibiotic is affective against a wide range of gram+ and gram - bacteria. Improve water quality, and make sure pumps are not sucking in air on the suction side.

SCIENTIFIC NAME: varies according to fungal species
COMMON NAME(S): skin fungus, body fungus
SYMPTOMS: Cottony tufts present on fins or body, usually around open wounds.
ORGANISM: saprophitic fungi

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: A mixture of Potassium dichromate and Silver Nitrate works the best. This is available through Aquatronics as Eye-Fungex. First, one is painted on the infected area, then the other. Follow directions on package.

SYMPTOMS: Very small white speckles on fish. Resembles a fine powder.

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT:  There are many commercially available products to cure Velvet. Among them are Maracide by Mardel Laboratories and Super Velvet by Aquatronics.
INFORMATION: Velvet, or Oodinium, is a very common disease which resembles Ich. The white pustules are much finer and are located mainly on the body. It is a little easier to cure than Ich, since the life cycle is not so rapid. It commonly follows chilling or stress caused by transportation or poor water quality.

It may sometimes be necessary to kill fish which are suffering as a result of an incurable disease or from a serious injury.
The decision whether to put a fish out of its misery or keep it alive in the hope that it may recover is often a difficult one to make. In some cases it may be worth seeking expert opinion by taking the fish to a reputable aquarium store or veterinary surgeon - however the additional STRESS involved in disturbing and transporting the fish may itself be unkind, or even the final straw as regards to possible survival.

Unacceptable Forms of Euthanasia
It is considered cruel to kill a fish by the following methods:
flushing them alive down the toilet
removing them from the water until death occurs
plunging them into boiling water
slowly chilling them (with or without water) (note: this method is still commonly advocated in the aquarium literature, but is now considered to cause the fish unnecessary pain.)
breaking the neck, without subsequent destruction of the brain

Safe Disposal of Carcasses
The aquarist should take responsibility for the safe and hygenic disposal of fish carcasses. The dead fish should first be wrapped in newspaper or absorbent tissue and then placed in a lead-proof plastic bag for domestic disposal. Alternatively, it can be burned, or buried in the garden. Never feed diseased dead (or live) fish to other fish as certain pathogens can be transmitted by this route. Similarly, do not flush dead fish down the lavatory as this could conceivably result in the infection of native fish with exotic pathogens.

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Make a Gentle Aquarium Siphon or Vacuum

Siphons (or gravel vacuums) are a great way to get rid of debris in an aquarium. A 'gentle' siphon, while slower than a normal siphon, is great for small tanks, quarantine or hospital tanks and tanks with fry, small fish or sick fish. As an added bonus, they are very cheap and easy to make.

Things You'll Need
■ A plastic bottle (preferably an old water bottle)
■ One 20-30 cm (8-12 inch) and one 60-90 cm (2-3 foot) piece of air tube
   (available at most pet stores with fish supplies)
■ Air and waterproof sealant (blue tack or similar works in a pinch)
■ A pocket knife

1. Rinse and dry the air tubes and bottle in clean water, taking particular care to clean the bottle if it has been washed in detergent or soap or had anything other than water in it (like fruit juice).

2. Remove the lid and carefully bore two holes in it using the tip of the pocketknife blade (or the boring tool if you have one). The holes should be barely big enough to squeeze the air tube through.

3. Insert the short piece of air tube into one of the holes so that there is less than a finger width sticking through the lower side of the lid.

4. Insert the long piece of air tube so that the amount on the lower side of the lid is about the height of the bottle.

5. Apply sealant where the air tube meets the lid on the outside and/or inside of the lid and allow it to dry. If you're using blue tack (or any other sealant that is not aquarium safe) and planning to use the siphon to add clean water to the tank, apply it only to the outside of the lid or else the water may become contaminated and harm your fish. Press it down firmly to make it airtight.

6. Put the lid back on the bottle, your gentle siphon is now ready to use! 

7. How to use
■ Ensure that the lid is on tightly.
■ Place the long tube in the tank.
■ Suck on the short tube while holding the bottle below the tank to get the flow started.
■ Move the long tube around to suck up any debris that you can find. Don't forget corners, crevices in or
   under ornaments and between the leaves of fake plants.

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Make Infusoria

Infusoria. The upside to using this type of food is that fact that it is very easy to create. Most people will already have everything needed to create a culture. This cheap and easy food can be used to feed newly hatched fry from various species including Betta.

1. What You’ll Need: A container – It is possible to use an empty jar or something similar.

Culture Medium – You can be creative here. Most people recommend using a piece of lettuce. It is also possible to create Infusoria with potatoes and other vegetables.

Food for Infusoria – Get either algae wafers or liquid fry food

2. Creating an Infusoria Culture

Begin by filling your empty container with treated tap water. The tap water should be treated using a water conditioner that removes chlorine and other harmful chemicals. Failing to treat the water will result in the Infusoria dying.

Next, you’ll want to place the lettuce or your culture medium into the jar. After that, place an algae wafer or a few drops of liquid fry food into the jar. Place the jar under a bright light.

After about a week, you’ll begin to notice the water becoming cloudy. This is normal. The water is filling with bacteria.

Wait awhile longer and the water will begin clearing up significantly. This is due to the Infusoria eater the bacteria from the water. Now you have Infusoria.

3. Feeding your Fry Infusoria

It is extremely important to feed your fry Infusoria properly. The best way to do this is to use an eye dropper. Take the eye dropped and suck up some of the water and Infusoria from your culture. Squeeze a small amount of this mixture into the tank with the fry. You need to be extremely careful to avoid overfeeding your fry! Doing so can cause your tank’s water to turn green and become polluted thus killing your fry.

4. Extra Tips

It is actually possible to obtain Infusoria from live plants. You can siphon the water from living plants or squeeze the liquid from the live plants and place it into a jar. If you’re in a desperate situation and need the Infusoria as quickly as possible, you can increase the production speed of the culture by using liquid fry food. This will help jump start your culture. Make sure that you careful choose your culture medium and wash it thoroughly before placing it into your culture jar.

The amount of time it takes to produce Infusoria depends dramatically on the amount of light received by the culture. Using an appropriate light can allow for a quicker production of Infusoria. It is possible to create a producing Infusoria culture in two to three days using the right amount of light.

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About This Blog

Welcome to It's Just Betta. We hope you've enjoyed browsing around our site. The purpose of this website is to provide those who are genuinely interested in caring for Betta fish, with advice, information. If you are considering Betta fish care, then be sure to take a look at our list of Betta fishes for sale. As always we'd love to hear from visitors, so if you have any questions or comments, please get in touch with us.

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